Graham English

I am sixty-six and this was my first Camino. I walked 630 kms in 27 days beginning on April 3, 2011. I can tell you what I found out about albergues (hostels). Then it is up to the individual experience. All albergues want you out early. Some places insist you are out by 7.30 and others by 8am. No albergue was awful, all were at least satisfactory. I found all the albergue staffs, volunteers as well as professional to be helpful and welcoming.

Some albergues are memorable by themselves, Esprit du Chemin in St Jean Pied de Port for example. The food is great as is the welcome. It costs more than other places but if you are starting from St Jean it is a great place to begin. I enjoyed Orisson too. For first time walkers it can be a good place to stop on the first day after about 10 kms but a climb to over 700 metres, and the food is good there too.

Some albergues are nothing special of themselves but on some nights the people gathered there make them special. Albergue Fenix at Villa Franca is pretty special anyway because it has a good communal dinner and a welcoming atmosphere but also on the night I was there I found a group of young Spaniards who sang a sort of flamenco that they improvised on with the help of a young man who sang and played rhythm on a cardboard box.

Albergue Jesus and Mary at Pamplona is in the main town. It is big but I liked it. There are good tapas bars nearby too.

At Estella I found the parroquial albergue after a hot and tiring walk. It has good cooking facilities, and lots of bits and pieces of food other walkers have left there, and on the night I was there an Italian lady cooked a great pasta sauce and we had a good community meal. Some of us bought the salad and wine. Peggy, the maitre de is also welcoming and helpful. I'd stay there again.

Santo Domengo albergue, the one on the main street that is open all year has good cooking facilities and helpful volunteer staff and it costs whatever you donate. I found that I'd often try the first albergue I came to and I had no regrets about any of them. St Juan de Ortega is out in the wilderness, and it was cold when I was there but I am glad I stayed there because of the people I met.

The municipio in Burgos is outstanding though it doesn't open until 2pm and I am one of those people who starts out early and gets there early. There are some good cafes around about to wait in though.

In Zubiri there is a small municipio as you first get into the town and an expensive private albergue in the main street with a town hall clock nearby that chimes throughout the night, and a busy highway beside it where trucks rush through at all hours. I was too tired to care but I'd probably walk to the next place 5kms on next time.

I caught the bus from Burgos to Leon because I had only four weeks to walk and I thought the messeta was the bit to miss. In Leon I stayed at Santa Maria the Benedictine nuns' albergue. I'd give it a miss next time. I found it noisy. Maybe it wasn't the albergue's fault. Some walkers are just noisy and I got them at Leon. On the other hand it has a fabulous cathedral nearby with stained glass to die for.

After Leon you have a choice of roads. I went via San Martin and stayed in an unprepossessing albergue Santa Anna. San Martin is a forgettable town and I booked in for the dinner at Santa Anna because there seemed little choice. It was great meal as was the company. You just never know on the Camino, places that look great can be awful and some places are just great when you do not expect it.

Rabanal is a delightful village. I stayed at Albergue el Pilar and it was good. I also discovered the Confraternity of St James has Albergue Gaucelmo there and it has a great reputation.

In Najera there is the tiny Albergue la Juderia with only twelve beds, no kitchen and no heating. A fellow walker found it in the guide book. I slept in my clothes as well as my sleeping bag but the people I was with made it a great night. Such is the Camino. My recommendations may lead you astray. You just have to find out for yourself.

In Portomarin I stayed in a private albergue beside the river. It has great cooking facilities and was clean and comfortable. It cost 10 euros when most cost 4 to 6.

I had only two bad snorers in 630kms. I can't get ear plugs to stay in my ears which made them worse. One of them drew this from me for the guest book:

The man in the bed to my right
Snored loudly all through the night
He made my bed shake
It was like an earthquake
Please God he's not near me tonight.

...Graham English 14 May 2011

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